1. Single Roll (Classic Cuff)
Description: A single fold at the hem, usually 1–2 inches wide. Shows just enough of the selvedge edge.
History: Originated as a practical roll by workers in the early 20th century to adjust long inseams on raw denim. The look was later popularized in the 1950s by rockabilly and greaser culture — think James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause.
2. Double Roll (Clean Cuff)
Description: Two neat folds, slightly slimmer than the single cuff, exposing a clean band of selvedge.
History: Came from bikers and workers who wanted a tighter, more secure roll to avoid catching fabric on boots, grease, or machinery. Became common with Levi’s 501 wearers in the mid-20th century.
3. Deep Cuff (Exaggerated Roll)
Description: A wide cuff, sometimes 3–5 inches tall, often styled mid-calf or above boots.
History: Associated with American workwear in the 1930s–40s, when denim was sold in only one or two inseam lengths and people rolled them high. Later, in the 1980s–90s, this became a punk and grunge statement — intentionally oversized and defiant.
4. Stacked Hem (Uncuffed)
Description: Instead of rolling, jeans are left long to “stack” in folds on the shoes. Selvedge edge remains hidden.
History: Popularized in Japanese streetwear and American hip-hop scenes in the 1990s–2000s. It symbolized breaking away from neatness and embracing raw, unaltered denim with heavy fades.
5. Pin Roll
Description: A tight taper created by folding and rolling the hem snug against the ankle. More common with sneakers.
History: Emerged in the 1980s–90s among sneakerheads and casual streetwear fans. While not traditional in heritage denim, it became a way to highlight footwear and achieve a slim silhouette.
6. Inside-Out Cuff
Description: Jeans are rolled to deliberately expose the inner weft, showing off fabric texture, fading, or unique selvedge colors.
History: Originated among Japanese denim enthusiasts in the 1990s–2000s who wanted to display rare selvedge IDs (red, green, blue lines) and the craft behind their jeans.